花絲首飾工藝 Filigree Jewelry in China

填了花瓣和樹葉絲的金手鐲

filled wire petal and leaf gold cuff bracelet

手工精細的盤曲技巧

intricate twining & twisting skills

什麼是花絲工藝? 

• 中國的花絲工藝、以金銀加工成絲，以精巧的盤曲、填絲、掐絲、攢焊和織编等技術， 製作精巧的首飾手工藝品。 和西方的似花邊的金銀絲細工飾品很相似。

什麼是盤曲?

• 以金銀絲盤繞和编織

什麼是填絲?

• 預備花絲外模或框架, 把盤曲成形的金銀絲填在模內(即模在外)。 填花瓣、填樹葉為常見的填絲首飾製品。

什麼是掐絲?

• 沿著花絲內模的外圍以金銀絲盤曲出不同花紋圖案 (即模在內), 如龍鳳、花鳥魚及亭台樓閣等等。

什麼是攢焊?

• 通過焊接，將製成的金銀絲紋樣拼在一起，以組成完整的首飾。

遠在東漢時期(公元25-220年)，花絲鑲嵌工藝已有不俗的發展。隨著花絲工藝在中國歷代手工藝日趨成熟的發展，令首飾加工更加完美。以明代為例， 明代統治者喜用大量金銀珠寶製造的裝飾品、首飾和生活用具。豪華精美的品種繁多。在定陵陵墓出土的金絲織成隨葬品如金冠、鳳冠，嵌玉金花就有數百個，精細入微的手工，反映出高超的工藝技巧。

明朝金鳳髮簪

gold phoenix hair pin of Ming Dynasty

What is wire handicraft in China?

• Wire handicraft in China is characterized with the use of the processed alloyed gold and silver.  In jewelry making process, the delicate jewelry product is crafted by means of ingenious handicraft techniques, such as pán-qū, tián-sī, qiā-sī & welding.  It is very much alike to filigree metalwork in western countries.

What is pán-qū? 

鳳冠霞帔

phoenix coronet shawl

• Twining & twisting.

What is tián-sī? 

• Filling the twinned wire into the wired mold or frame.  Filled petal and leaf are commonly found in tián-sī jewelry product.

What is qiā-sī? 

• Twining & twisting wire outside of the inner wired mold.  The commonly seen qiā-sī jewelry motif are dragon, phoenix, flowers,birds, fish and pavilion, terraces & towers.

What is welding?

• Composing the individual finished parts together to make the products complete by welding.

Far from the Eastern Han Dynasty (AD 25-220), the development of wire handicraft had been very impressive. With respect to its further development in dynasty after dynasty, it became an increasingly mature kind of arts and crafts in China, making jewelry processing to be more perfect. The Ming Dynasty, for example, rulers like to use a lot of gold, silver, and other kinds of jewelry material to produce accessories, jewelry and living utensils.  Most of them are in luxury & exquisite varieties.  Hundreds of gold wire crafted funerary objects, such as Golden Crown, Coronet, jade inlaid golden flower were unearthed from the Dìng Líng Tomb.  The intricate and fine detail of the items show the superb craftsmanship.

定陵陵墓出土的金冠

golden crown for Ming emperor
unearthed from the Dìng Líng Tomb

左: 金冠以極細的金絲編結而成，非常華麗。冠高24 厘米，口徑20.5 厘米，重826 克。

Left: the exquisite & gorgeous Golden Crown was made from very fine gold wire . Crown height: 24 cm, diameter 20.5 cm and weighs 826 grams.

定陵陵墓出土的鳳冠

unearthed phoenix coronet
from the Dìng Líng Tomb

上: 皇后受封、謁廟、朝會時戴用。冠上分別飾有花絲金龍、翠鳳和珍珠與寶石組成的花卉，並鑲有150 多塊寶石，5000 多顆珍珠，非常華麗。

Above: it was worn by the queen in the title granting ceremony, or for visiting temple & assembly. This beautiful jewelry is respectively decorated with filigree dragon, jade phoenix, and flowers composed of 5000 pearls and over 150 precious stones.

Posted in: 首飾材料,首飾製作